Sometimes the best adventures start long before the sun even rises. The alarm goes off while the world is still asleep, bags are packed, and there’s that electric mix of excitement and anticipation in the air. The streets are quiet, the sky is still dark, and it feels like you’re getting a head start on something special. Usually, I wouldn't be very excited about waking before 4 am to catch an Uber, but hey, we're going to Japan!
Shoes laced, bags in hand - we are off to adventure! Let's go!
✈️ February 13 – Travel Day
San Diego → Los Angeles → Tokyo
When your day starts at 4:00 AM thanks to a 6:15 AM flight…
Uber at 4 AM? ✔️
Two hours early? ✔️
Lines already forming at the check-in counter? π³
Not going to lie — slight panic moment. I stood in a pretty long line for over 20 minutes before anyone arrived. The line behind me was sooooooo looooong. But the airline agents showed up, I had already checked in, so just a quick bag drop, and we were good to go.
Arrived at the gate at 5:15 AM and honestly, being packed and ready to walk out the door at 4 AM made all the difference.
Yes… there are airport lines at 4 AM even in San Diego. Just so you know. Really - for an international flight with checked bags, play it safe and go early.
LAX Layover
After landing safely in Los Angeles, I had a three-hour layover — which meant it was finally time to use those United Club passes that had been living in my wallet.
The lounge was large and comfortable with:
a full bar
plenty of food
an omelet station
beautiful runway views
and coffee… glorious coffee ☕
There’s even an outdoor viewing deck if you want some fresh air. It was a relaxing way to start my very early morning. Not a bad way to begin a travel day.
Flights from LAX to Japan - I learned from the stewardesses there is always turbulence about 3/4 through the flight when the planes enter and exit the jet stream. So, just expect it and don't let it bother you. The flight attendants said it was break time for them ;)
π―π΅ February 14 – Arrival in Japan
If you’re traveling to Japan, a huge tip is to use the Visit Japan Web website before you arrive:
Enter your passport and travel information before your trip. When you land, connect to the airport Wi-Fi, open the site, look for the QR code button, click, and your immigration QR code will appear. Show the QR code at immigration, collect your luggage, and then scan it again at the exit.
Pro tip: Screenshot the QR code because Wi-Fi can be unreliable.
Getting from the Airport
There are several options:
Taxi – expensive
Limousine Bus – reasonable
Train – fastest and cheapest but requires navigating the rail system immediately
After a long flight, I chose a Private car from Narita to hotel booked through Viator. The company (Miu Tours) was extremely communicative through messaging and WhatsApp, and honestly, it was nice to just relax after the long journey.
π¨ Hotel: DoubleTree by Hilton Tokyo Ariake
This was the perfect hotel for the first night in Japan.
Reasons I’d absolutely stay here again:
• Easy train access into the city
• Comfortable modern rooms
• A gym (always appreciated)
• Good dining options
• Starbucks coffee machine in the lobby — which makes me very happy ☕
π First Meal in Japan – Brew 33
My first dinner was at the hotel restaurant, Brew 33, and it came with a quick cultural lesson. When I sat down with the menu, I waited for someone to come take my order…
…and waited.
…and waited.
Eventually I realized something important about Japan: Servers don’t automatically come to you. Instead, you politely call them over by saying:
“Sumimasen!” (Excuse me)
And when you're ready for the bill, you say:
“Okaikei onegaishimasu.” (The bill please.)
Even if your Japanese is limited, people genuinely appreciate when you try.
My first meal included:
• Five spice edamame
• Beef pho
• The cutest heart-shaped rice cake that melted into the broth
Phenomenal first meal in Japan. π₯
π―π΅ The Famous Japan 7-Eleven
Japan’s 7-Eleven has been wildly hyped, so naturally I had to investigate. From the outside it looks exactly like an American 7-Eleven. Step inside… and it’s a completely different universe. The prepared food section alone feels more like a European grocery market than a convenience store.
Tonight’s snack haul:
πͺ Caramel chocolate biscuits
π₯ Caramel chocolate-covered pecans
Both were dangerously good. I now fully understand the obsession. And yes — there will be many more 7-Eleven stops on this trip.
π February 15 – Tokyo → Hakone
π³ Japanese Hotel Breakfast
Hotel breakfasts in Japan are not to be missed. The spread at the DoubleTree included:
• coffees and fresh juices
• cereals and salads
• cold cuts and hot dishes
• pastries
• made-to-order omelets
WOW.
Travel tip: It gets busy around 9 AM, so arriving a little earlier helps avoid the rush.
π Navigating Trains in Tokyo
Tokyo’s train system looks intimidating… but it’s actually incredibly efficient.
Step 1: Use Google Maps
Google Maps is basically your multilingual train concierge. It tells you platforms, departure times, and even which train car is best for transfers.
Step 2: Get a Suica Card
Download a Suica card to Apple Wallet or Android. Load it with yen and simply tap in and out at the gates. Bonus: you can use it at convenience stores too.
Step 3: Be Early
If a train is scheduled to depart at 10:03, it leaves right at 10:03.
With a charged phone, a loaded Suica card, and a little buffer time, Tokyo’s trains feel less chaotic and more like a beautifully choreographed dance.
π The Shinkansen (Bullet Train)
At Tokyo Station, I boarded the Shinkansen to Odawara to begin the famous Hakone Loop.
You can reserve tickets online through the official Shinkansen reservation system. You need to make an account, but though it may take a little time the first try, I think it is easier than the machines in the stations. I suggest, you prebook online the night before. There are a lot of trains each day to popular destinations, and it gives you a little freedom if you decide on a late start.
After purchasing:
• save the QR code to your phone or Apple Wallet
• scan it at the turnstile
• walk right through
Seats aren’t always required, but reserving one makes the ride more comfortable.
Before boarding I grabbed a bento box (because train snacks are mandatory) and tried a Starbucks Caramel Affogato drink — basically a caramel frappuccino with ice cream in the middle. Amazing.
Forty-five minutes later, smooth and whisper-quiet, we were pulling into Odawara Station with Mount Fuji appearing in the distance. Japan rail is truly something special.
π Arrival in Hakone
Our hotel shuttle picked us up right on time at Odawara Station and brought us into the mountains. Hotel shuttles are easy to reserve in advance through the hotel transportation page. Make sure to do it 30 days in advance because they often have just one shuttle with 10 seats, and they fill up.
π¨ Hotel: Hyatt Regency Hakone Resort & Spa
1320 Gora Hakone
Onsen available: 6:00 AM – Midnight
Nestled in the mountains, this resort is the definition of serene luxury. Built into the surrounding rock and forest, the property feels like a natural extension of the landscape. We were welcomed with drinks in the Living Room by the fireplace before heading to our room.
Inside:
• spa robes and slippers
• beautiful spa-style bathroom
• full coffee service
• stunning mountain views
Every detail is designed for comfort and calm. Pure bliss.
π The Hakone Free Pass
If you're visiting Hakone, this is essential.
Purchase the Hakone Free Pass through the EMOT ticket site before arriving. You must do this on a phone because you have to download the app. One ticket per phone. Yes, it is kind of a pain, but super easy to use once you have it.
The pass includes unlimited rides on:
• Hakone Tozan Railway
• Cable Cars
• Ropeways
• Buses
• The famous pirate ship on Lake Ashi
Plus it provides discounts on museums and attractions. Again, each traveler keeps their ticket on their smartphone. It makes exploring the entire region simple and stress-free.
Hakone Loop – Part 1
Since we arrived in the afternoon, we started with a small portion of the famous Hakone Loop. First stop: the Hakone Tozan Cable Car, climbing into the mountains. From there we transferred to the ropeway. Part of the ropeway was temporarily closed, but we were still able to ride one section and see the dramatic volcanic steam vents rising from the landscape.
And in the distance… Mount Fuji. It was a really fun way to spend the afternoon. I would like to come back and do the entire ropeway when it is fully operational.
π½ Dinner at the Hyatt
Dinner that evening was easy and delicious at the hotel’s Living Room restaurant. After a long travel day, staying close to the fire with good food felt perfect. Bonus - the food was really really good!
♨️ The Onsen Experience
Before bed… we visited the onsen.
An onsen is a traditional Japanese hot spring bath filled with naturally heated mineral water. Hakone sits in a volcanic region, which means the hot springs here are rich in therapeutic minerals.
Onsen etiquette is simple but important:
• shower thoroughly before entering [no swim suits]
• soak quietly
• keep hair out of the water
• maintain a peaceful atmosphere
The goal isn’t just bathing — it’s renewal. Relaxed muscles. Quiet reflection. Total calm.
Note: Many onsen do not allow tattoos - so a tattoo cover may be required. You can get them on amazon before you go.
π February 16 – The Hakone Loop Adventure
One of the positive sides of jet lag? Watching the sunrise with a cup of coffee over the mountains. Beautiful. Yes, I would have enjoyed more sleep, but then, I would have missed this view. No worries - off to breakfast soon and out to adventure.
Another Fabulous Breakfast
I really cannot stress too much how excellent Japanese hotel breakfasts are. Breakfast at the Hyatt blends East and West perfectly. You have hot and cold stations. Things for adults and children. It is HUGE and so very yummy.
Today’s choices included:
• fresh omelettes, many hot meat and egg dishes, cold fruits, salads, meats and cheeses
• delicate dumplings and sashimi plus rice [always]
• tons of pastries and sweets
• coffee (always coffee)
It was a very, very good morning.
Hakone Loop – Part 2
Gora Park
We took the cable car to Gora Park, a historic garden opened in 1914 and considered Japan’s first French-style formal garden.
Highlights include:
• seasonal flowers
• peaceful walking paths
• elegant symmetry
• tropical greenhouses
Inside the greenhouse lives Japan’s oldest Bougainvillea, which absolutely steals the show. I was there in February, and you might think everything was brown and uninteresting, but oh no! Japanese gardeners really know their seasons and how to use everything [like flowering cabbages - really they were gorgeous] to keep the gardens lush and vibrant. So worth it!
Hakone Loop – Part 3
Hakone Open-Air Museum
A short train ride later we arrived at one of Hakone’s most famous attractions. This massive outdoor museum blends art with nature in spectacular ways.
Highlights included:
• giant sculptures rising from the landscape
• interactive installations
• the Picasso Pavilion
• the Symphonic Sculpture Tower with stained glass spiraling overhead
It feels like walking through a dream.
Hakone Loop – Part 4
Pirate Ship on Lake Ashi
Yes… Hakone has a pirate ship. And yes… you absolutely should ride it.
The ship sails across Lake Ashi surrounded by mountain views and the famous torii gate rising from the water.
It may feel slightly Disney-like, but it’s fun, scenic, and unforgettable.
Upgrade to first class for a few extra dollars — totally worth it.
⛩ Hakone Shrine
Hidden within a towering cedar forest along the shores of Lake Ashi, Hakone Shrine has welcomed visitors for over 1,200 years.
Today, travelers visit Hakone Shrine to seek blessings for:
• success
• safe travels
• relationships
• new beginnings
One of the shrine’s most iconic sights is the vivid red torii gate rising from the waters of Lake Ashi. Known as the “Gate of Peace,” it marks the symbolic boundary between the human world and the sacred, welcoming visitors into a space of reflection and spiritual calm.
On misty mornings, the gate appears to float on the lake with Mount Fuji sometimes visible in the distance — a scene that has become one of Hakone’s most photographed views. Peaceful. Powerful. Timeless. A place where nature, history, and spirituality quietly meet.
π½ Kaiseki Dinner - Kaiseki Kadan
That evening we experienced our first kaiseki meal.
Our dinner took place at Kaiseki Kadan, an elegant restaurant in Gora, Hakone, located on the historic grounds of the luxury ryokan Gora Kadan. The property was once the summer residence of a member of Japan’s imperial family, and today the restaurant still carries that quiet sense of heritage and refinement. The Western-style building dates to the early 20th century and features stained glass and art-deco touches — a beautiful contrast to the delicate traditional cuisine served inside.
Kaiseki dates back to the 16th century and evolved alongside the Japanese tea ceremony. Over time it became a carefully choreographed dining experience where seasonality, presentation, balance, and flavor are treated as an art form. Every ingredient reflects the time of year, and every plate is designed to highlight color, texture, and harmony.
Unlike a typical multi-course dinner, a kaiseki meal follows a traditional progression meant to gently guide the palate through different flavors and preparations.
Our SAKURA nine-course fish menu unfolded like a story:
• Sakizuke – a small seasonal appetizer that welcomes the guest
• Hassun – a beautifully arranged plate representing the season, often with several small bites
• MukΕzuke – fresh sashimi showcasing the day’s catch
• Takiawase – delicate simmered vegetables and fish served separately to highlight each flavor
• Yakimono – a grilled dish, often perfectly charred fish
• Futamono – a comforting lidded soup course
• Sunomono – a light vinegared dish to refresh the palate
• Gohan – rice served with pickles and miso soup
• Mizumono – a simple seasonal dessert to end the meal
Each course arrived slowly, one at a time, allowing us to savor every bite and appreciate the artistry behind it. The meal was served by women in lovely Kimono who made sure we had everything we needed.
The plates themselves were just as beautiful as the food — delicate ceramics, lacquerware, and thoughtful garnishes that made each dish feel like a small gift.
Light. Elegant. Perfectly balanced. You have to try this, and hopefully more than once. I was able to book through an app called Table Check - in fact, that is how I made many of our reservations. For this restaurant, it would not let me book till we were in Japan. Luckily, we found an available time.
Final Evening in Hakone
One last soak in the onsen.
Packing bags.
Grateful for mountains, hot springs, and extraordinary food.
Tomorrow… we head to Kyoto.
π February 17
Next Stop: Kyoto π
As the day wraps up, it’s impossible not to fall a little in love with Hakone. Between the incredible views, the fresh mountain air, and all the unique spots tucked around the area, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to slow down and just enjoy the moment. Every turn seemed to offer something new, and honestly, it’s easy to see why so many people add Hakone to their Japan itinerary. It was also the PERFECT way to start the Japan adventure. It was a little slower and more relaxed, allowing for recovery from the time change and travel fatigue.
That said… the adventure isn’t over yet. Next stop: Kyoto! And I can’t lie, I was already getting excited. From historic temples to charming streets and way too many things to explore, Kyoto is calling.
Hakone, you’ve been amazing — but Kyoto, we’re on our way! ✨The adventure continues...
Until next time,
Eat well. Move well. Wander well.
Lyn @ WanderLynTravel
Check us out on social media @ WanderLynTravel
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