Part 1: Shiretoko National Park
When most people think of Japan, they picture Tokyo, Kyoto, or Osaka. They're wonderful... but if you're looking for untouched wilderness, dramatic coastlines, volcanoes, wildlife, and some of the freshest seafood you'll ever eat, it's time to head north to Hokkaido.
For my birthday adventure, my travel buddies Chris, Mario, and I spent the first few days exploring Shiretoko National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on Hokkaido's northeastern peninsula. If you love hiking, nature, incredible food, and ending every day in a relaxing onsen, this itinerary is for you.
Fair warning: if you're counting steps, your fitness tracker is going to be very, very happy.
Before You Go
A few simple preparations will make your trip much smoother.
If you're planning on driving, be sure to get an International Driving Permit before leaving home. We rented our car through Toyota Rent-a-Car, and having our own vehicle gave us complete freedom to explore the peninsula at our own pace.
Bring some cash. Japan is becoming more credit-card friendly, but we still found several restaurants, attractions, and smaller businesses that accepted cash only.
Three days before departure, complete your immigration and customs forms using Visit Japan Web. It generates QR codes that make entering Japan incredibly fast. I also recommend taking screenshots of the QR codes so they're easy to access even if your internet isn't cooperating after you land.
One of my favorite travel traditions in Japan is collecting commemorative stamps, so don't forget a stamp book! National parks, train stations, visitor centers, airports, and attractions often have beautifully designed stamps that make wonderful souvenirs.
You don't need to speak Japanese to have a wonderful trip, but learning a few phrases goes a long way.
Ohayō gozaimasu – Good morning
Konnichiwa – Hello
Konbanwa – Good evening
Sumimasen – Excuse me (or a polite way to get your server's attention)
Okaikei onegaishimasu – The bill, please
Before every meal, join your hands together and say Itadakimasu, expressing gratitude for everyone who helped bring the meal to your table. When you're finished, Gochisousama deshita thanks the cook and everyone involved in preparing your meal.
It's a beautiful tradition that makes every meal feel just a little more meaningful.
Day One: Welcome to Hokkaido!
After spending the night at Haneda Airport, we boarded an early morning flight to Memanbetsu Airport, picked up our rental car, and officially began our Hokkaido road trip.
The drive to Shiretoko takes about two hours, but honestly...don't rush it.
The highway hugs the Sea of Okhotsk, with expansive ocean views on one side and lush green mountains on the other. The roads are quiet, the scenery is spectacular, and almost immediately you realize this is a completely different Japan than the bustling cities most visitors experience.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8Gy-a5ro694
Oshinkoshin Falls
Our first stop was Oshinkoshin Falls, conveniently located right beside the highway.
It's one of those perfect road-trip attractions. Park the car, climb a short flight of stone steps, and suddenly you're standing in front of a roaring waterfall cascading down volcanic rock.
The cool mist feels wonderful after the drive, and it's hard to believe something this spectacular is literally one minute from the parking lot. Definitely worth the stop.
Lunch in Utoro
By lunchtime we had arrived in the fishing town of Utoro, the gateway to Shiretoko National Park. Whether you choose fresh seafood, a venison burger, or local ramen, you'll quickly discover something Hokkaido does exceptionally well... Comfort food. Everything tastes incredibly fresh because most of it was harvested just hours before.
Shiretoko Daiichi Hotel
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/j8O38_XoE9E
For the next two nights we stayed at the Shiretoko Daiichi Hotel, and it was the perfect place to begin our adventure.
We splurged a little for an ocean-view room, and I'm so glad we did. The room was surprisingly spacious by Japanese standards, with comfortable Western-style beds, a separate sitting area with sofas and chairs, a desk, and huge windows overlooking the Sea of Okhotsk.
It felt like a wonderful birthday treat before the celebrations had even begun.
After traveling all morning, we slipped into our hotel yukatas and headed straight for the onsen. Unfortunately, photos aren't allowed inside—and honestly, that's part of the magic. Everyone simply disconnects, relaxes, and lets the warm mineral waters melt away the fatigue.
Long travel day? Onsen.
Big hike? Onsen.
Birthday tomorrow? Definitely onsen.
I could absolutely get used to this lifestyle.
Furepe Waterfall Trail
That afternoon we headed over to the Shiretoko National Park Nature Center for one of my favorite easy hikes of the trip.
The Furepe Waterfall Trail is only about 2 kilometers round-trip, making it perfect after a morning of travel.
The hike begins beneath a canopy of trees where the cicadas are so unbelievably loud that it almost sounds electronic. I've hiked in many places around the world, but I've never heard anything quite like it. It's nature's own soundtrack welcoming you into Shiretoko.
Soon the forest opens into rolling grasslands sprinkled with wildflowers. Ahead stretches the brilliant blue Sea of Okhotsk, while behind you rise rugged volcanic mountains. It's one of those landscapes that makes you stop every few minutes just to take another photo.
Then you arrive at Furepe Waterfall, one of the most unusual waterfalls I've ever seen.
Instead of flowing over the cliff from a river, groundwater filters through the porous volcanic rock before spilling directly out of the cliff face into the ocean below.
We were also lucky enough to spot several deer quietly grazing nearby, completely unfazed by the hikers.
It was the perfect introduction to the incredible beauty of Shiretoko.
An Award-Winning Buffet
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/gqfSgZA6zQU
That evening we enjoyed the hotel's famous buffet, and now I completely understand why it has won awards. Everything was incredibly fresh and beautifully presented.
There were endless varieties of sushi and sashimi, steaming bowls of ramen, snow crab, grilled seafood, steaks, tempura, Hokkaido cheeses, fresh fruit, pastries, and desserts that looked almost too pretty to eat.
The hardest part wasn't deciding what to eat... It was deciding what not to eat.
Every dish tasted fresh and flavorful, and somehow the quality never felt like "buffet food." It felt like dozens of specialty restaurants had all moved into one enormous dining room.
It was the perfect first dinner in Hokkaido.
Day Two: Birthday in Bear Country
What better place to celebrate a birthday than one of the wildest corners of Japan?
We started the morning with another fantastic breakfast buffet before heading down to Utoro Harbor for what I'd been looking forward to for months.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/gCNHESF3sLE
Godzilla Rock Wildlife Cruise
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/tNvAFGo8Glk
The Godzilla Rock Wildlife Cruise follows the spectacular Shiretoko coastline, beginning at the famous Godzilla-shaped rock formation before weaving beneath towering volcanic cliffs that plunge dramatically into the Sea of Okhotsk.
The scenery reminded me a little of Kauai—except with calmer seas, fewer tourists, and the very real possibility of spotting brown bears wandering along the shoreline.
Although we didn't see bears on the cruise itself, we did spot one later during our travels, proving that Shiretoko really is wild country. We saw dramatic sea cliffs, waterfalls spilling directly into the ocean, nesting seabirds, and breathtaking volcanic landscapes that simply can't be appreciated from land.
One important tip... Bring a warm jacket. Seriously. It may be August, but once that boat gets moving, the wind has absolutely no respect for birthdays.
Birthday Seafood Lunch
After returning to the harbor we celebrated with one of Hokkaido's greatest treasures...
Fresh seafood. Whether it's salmon roe, sea urchin, scallops, crab, or incredibly fresh sashimi, Hokkaido is a seafood lover's dream. Every bite tasted like it had just come off the fishing boat.
Scenic Drive Over Shiretoko Pass
After lunch we drove the winding road over Shiretoko Pass. Mount Rausu dominated the landscape, and on a clear day you can even see Kunashiri Island stretching across the horizon. Just beautiful.
Shiretoko Five Lakes
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ElIACpzpjog
The highlight of the day—and honestly one of my favorite hikes anywhere in Japan—was the Shiretoko Five Lakes.
Before entering the trail, everyone watches a bear safety presentation.
Let's just say... It definitely gets your attention. Especially as we saw two bears on the side of the road on the drive up! By the end of the video you're simultaneously excited to hike and hoping every bush remains completely still.
Fortunately, no bears appeared on the hike itself. Instead, we wandered through ancient forests, peaceful wetlands, and discovered one crystal-clear lake after another, each perfectly reflecting the surrounding mountains. Near the end of the hike, the trail transitions onto an elevated wooden boardwalk specially designed to protect both visitors and wildlife while providing panoramic views across the wetlands.
We also spotted deer quietly grazing near the lakes, adding to the feeling that we'd stepped into one of Japan's last truly wild places. It couldn't have been a better birthday hike.
And yes... We easily surpassed 10,000 steps. Exactly the kind of vacation I love.
Birthday Kaiseki Dinner
Back at the hotel, one final stop before dinner... The onsen, of course.
Then came the perfect ending to a perfect birthday: a spectacular multi-course kaiseki dinner. Course after course arrived featuring beautifully prepared Hokkaido seafood, local meats, seasonal vegetables, and artistic presentations that made each plate feel like a work of art. It wasn't just dinner. It was an experience. Full menu in the video :)
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kn9uNyE9Bt8
Looking Back
What surprised me most about Shiretoko wasn't just the scenery—it was how alive it felt.
Every hike came with the possibility of seeing wildlife. Every viewpoint seemed more dramatic than the last. Every meal showcased ingredients harvested just hours before. We walked well over 10,000 steps each day, but it never felt like exercise. It felt like exploration and adventure. That's my favorite kind of travel. After just two days, Hokkaido had already stolen a little piece of my heart. And the adventure was only beginning.
Coming Up in Part 2...
We'll leave Shiretoko behind and drive toward Lake Akan, stopping at steaming volcanic vents, the crystal-blue waters of Lake Mashu, one of the best bowls of ramen I've ever had, and an unforgettable canoe trip on one of Japan's most beautiful lakes.
Happy Travels!
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