Part 3: Over the Mountains to Furano & Biei 🌸
Our Hokkaido road trip was about to change personalities again. We had explored the rugged coastline of Shiretoko, walked among steaming volcanoes and brilliant crater lakes, learned about Ainu culture and paddled around Lake Akan. Now it was time to head west, cross the mountains and enter an entirely different Hokkaido—one filled with dramatic gorges, waterfalls, impossibly blue water, rolling farmland and fields bursting with summer flowers. Our destination was Furano and Biei, but as we were quickly learning in Hokkaido, getting there was going to be half the adventure.
🚗 Into the Mountains We Go
After one last big Japanese breakfast at Lake Akan, we packed up the car and headed west. Before disappearing into the mountains, however, we made one very important road-trip stop: the gas station. There are some wonderfully remote stretches of road through central Hokkaido, and this is definitely not where you want to see that little gas-pump light suddenly appear on your dashboard.
Here's your useful Japanese phrase for the day: “Regular, mantan de onegaishimasu,” which means “Regular gas, full tank, please.” Look at us practically fluent! Okay, we could order ramen and fill a gas tank, but I was feeling pretty accomplished. With a full tank and plenty of mountain scenery ahead, we were off.
🌲 Mikuni Pass: Coffee With One Incredible View
Our first major stop was Mikuni Pass, the highest national highway pass in Hokkaido, and the drive getting there was absolutely gorgeous. The road climbed through dense forest until we reached one of the most recognizable sights along the route: Matsumi Bridge, a massive red structure cutting dramatically through what looked like an endless sea of green.
From the overlook, the forest seemed to stretch forever, with mountains rising in the distance and that bright red bridge looking almost tiny against the enormous landscape. It was one of those places that really gave me a sense of just how wild and spacious Hokkaido is.
Naturally, we stopped at the little log-cabin café at the pass for coffee, because spectacular mountain scenery is always improved by caffeine. We also discovered a delicious lemon tart and banana bread, and both were absolutely worth the stop. At this point, our Hokkaido road-trip philosophy had become pretty clear: see something beautiful, eat something delicious, repeat. I'm very comfortable with this system.
💦 Sounkyo Gorge: Meteor & Galaxy Falls
From Mikuni Pass, we continued toward Sounkyo Gorge, where the scenery somehow became even more dramatic. Massive volcanic cliffs rise on either side of the gorge, creating towering rock walls around the river below. This entire region was shaped by ancient volcanic activity, and you definitely feel tiny standing beneath those enormous cliffs.
Two of the stars here are Ryusei-no-Taki and Ginga-no-Taki, commonly called Meteor Falls and Galaxy Falls. The waterfalls tumble down the cliffs near one another but have completely different personalities. Ryusei is the more powerful of the two, plunging dramatically down the rock face, while Ginga falls in thinner, more delicate streams. Together, with the volcanic cliffs towering behind them, they're spectacular.
Of course, simply looking at the mountains from below wasn't going to be enough for us. There was a ropeway, which meant obviously we were going up.
🚡 Sounkyo Kurodake Ropeway: Up We Go!
The Sounkyo Kurodake Ropeway carried us high above the gorge and into the mountains, with the landscape opening beneath us as we climbed. At the upper station, we wandered around, took in the views and enjoyed the mountain air. It's amazing how quickly your perspective changes when you're suddenly looking down over the forests and mountains you were just driving through.
And then there was lunch. What does one eat high in the mountains of Hokkaido? Ramen, obviously. By this point, I had decided that ramen was basically the official fuel of our Hokkaido road trip. There is something particularly wonderful about sitting down to a cold or hot bowl of noodles after spending the morning in the mountains. Yummy ramen, fresh mountain air and a gorgeous view? That's a pretty fabulous lunch.
Eventually, we rode the ropeway back down and continued toward Biei and Furano, but Hokkaido still had a couple of surprises waiting for us along the way.
💙 Shirogane Blue Pond: Yes, It's Really Blue
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VGdCC00Q4bE
Our next stop was one of Hokkaido's most photographed attractions, Shirogane Blue Pond. The pond is famous for its unusual blue color and the bare tree trunks that rise dramatically from the water, creating beautiful reflections when the light cooperates.
And yes, the water really is blue. The distinctive color comes from minerals and microscopic particles suspended in the water that scatter blue light. Depending on the weather and sunlight, the pond can shift between shades of turquoise, aqua and deeper cobalt blue. It's certainly unusual, and the trees rising from the water give the whole place an almost otherworldly appearance.
Now, I'm going to say something slightly controversial. It was pretty, and I'm glad we stopped, but was it my favorite thing in the area? Nope. Keep driving for about five minutes.
💦 Shirahige Falls: Now THIS Was Gorgeous
Just a few minutes farther up the mountain road is Shirahige Falls, or “White Beard Falls,” and this was the winner for me. Instead of one giant waterfall, streams of groundwater emerge directly from cracks in the volcanic rock and tumble down the cliff into the brilliant blue Biei River below.
From the bridge above, you get this gorgeous combination of white cascading water, cobalt-blue river and lush green forest. The waterfalls almost look as though they're growing directly out of the rock, and that intense blue water below makes the whole scene even more dramatic.
Blue Pond may get the Instagram fame, but Shirahige Falls gets my vote. Sometimes the less famous stop is the one you remember most.
🏨 Hello, Furano!
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/K54KH2WYH8Y
After a full day crossing central Hokkaido, we finally arrived at the Shin Furano Prince Hotel, tucked into the forest at the base of the mountains. Our room had a wonderful view across the Furano valley toward the Tokachi mountain range, including the volcanic peaks beyond. After spending most of the day driving through mountains, it felt pretty wonderful to simply stand at the window and take it all in.
The hotel itself has that wonderful mountain-resort feeling, surrounded by forest but perfectly positioned for exploring Furano. We unpacked, freshened up and then headed downstairs because after a day of mountain passes, waterfalls and ropeways, we had definitely worked up an appetite.
🍣 Japanese Buffet, Furano Edition
Dinner was at the hotel's buffet, and by this point Japanese hotel buffets had completely destroyed my expectations for what the word “buffet” should mean. There was fresh seafood, sushi, Japanese specialties, meats, vegetables, beautifully presented little dishes and enough desserts to make “I'll just try a little of everything” a very dangerous strategy.
Furano is also wine country, so this is a great place to try some local Furano wine or the area's delicious grape juice if you prefer something non-alcoholic. Fresh Hokkaido food, local flavors and mountain views made this a pretty fabulous ending to a long day of exploring.
Except, of course, we weren't quite finished.
♨️ Shisainoyu Onsen: My Favorite Kind of Nightcap
After dinner, it was time for Shisainoyu Onsen, the hotel's hot spring. At this point, I had developed what I consider a very healthy Hokkaido routine: walk thousands of steps, climb something, eat something delicious and then soak myself in very hot water.
Shisainoyu has indoor baths as well as an outdoor rotenburo, where you can soak surrounded by forest and listen to the wind moving through the trees. After spending most of the day in the car and on our feet, lowering myself into that hot water felt amazing. I continue to stand by my position that every hotel in the world should have an onsen.
I'll start the petition.
🌸 Good Morning, Furano!
The next morning began, naturally, with another big Japanese hotel breakfast before we jumped back into the car to explore Furano and Biei. Almost immediately, Hokkaido looked completely different again. Gone were the rugged cliffs and dense wilderness of eastern Hokkaido. Now we were driving through gently rolling farmland with enormous patchwork fields stretching across the hills and mountains rising in the distance.
And then came the flowers. So. Many. Flowers.
💜 Farm Tomita: Welcome to Lavender Country
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lhAxguG0Qjo
Our first major stop was Farm Tomita, one of the places most closely associated with Furano's famous lavender fields. The farm began cultivating lavender decades ago, originally growing it commercially for essential oil. When cheaper imported lavender threatened the industry, the farm eventually found a new future through tourism, and today it has become one of Hokkaido's signature attractions.
While lavender is definitely the star, Farm Tomita is much more than endless rows of purple. More than 80 varieties of flowers bloom throughout the seasons, creating gorgeous ribbons of color across the property. We wandered through the gardens, browsed the lavender shops and took a ridiculous number of pictures because every time you turn around there seems to be another beautiful view.
Of course, I was also very interested in the edible side of lavender farming. We tried the famous lavender soft-serve ice cream, which was creamy, lightly floral and just unusual enough to make it fun. We also tried the lavender bubbly water, which was light, floral and surprisingly refreshing. Some people come to Farm Tomita for the flowers. I apparently came to see how many different ways they could get me to consume lavender.
This is research, people. Travel research.
🌈 Shikisai no Oka: Hokkaido in Technicolor
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SwKNex2P0Yk
Next came Shikisai no Oka, and if Farm Tomita is famous for lavender, this place is all about COLOR. Huge rolling fields are planted in stripes of red, yellow, orange, purple, pink and white, creating enormous ribbons of flowers across the hills with the Tokachi mountains rising in the distance. It is ridiculously photogenic.
Rather than walking every inch of those rolling hills, we hopped aboard the little tractor tram, which winds through the flower fields and gives you a wonderful overview of the property. It was a fun and relaxing way to see the fields, and frankly, my legs were perfectly happy to let the tractor do some of the work for a change. If you want even more freedom to explore, you can rent a golf cart and drive around designated areas yourself. Honestly, I support any attraction that looks at acres of rolling hills and says, “Would you perhaps like a golf cart?” Yes. Yes, I would.
It was a bit warm, so we also grabbed one of the more interesting drinks of the trip: Hokkaido corn tea. The best way I can describe it is tea that tastes a little like popcorn. Yes, popcorn in my tea. It was unusual, surprisingly tasty and exactly the sort of thing I love trying when I travel. Remember one of the WanderLyn rules: always try the weird drink.
Road Trip: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/AerVFCEXqnQ
🌳 Ken & Mary: When a Tree Becomes a Celebrity
From the flower fields, we headed into the beautiful rolling countryside around Biei, an area known for its patchwork agricultural landscapes. One of the quirky landmarks here is the Ken & Mary Tree, a tall poplar that became famous after appearing in a 1970s Nissan Skyline television commercial featuring characters named Ken and Mary.
Yes, a tree became famous because of a car commercial, and more than 50 years later, tourists—including us—are still driving out into the countryside to take its picture. Marketing people, take notes.
The tree itself is fun to see, but the surrounding countryside is really the star. Rolling fields stretch toward distant mountains, and the entire landscape has that beautifully manicured patchwork appearance that makes Biei so distinctive.
🌄 Hokusei no Oka: Apparently We're Climbing Again
Our next stop was Hokusei no Oka Observatory, with its distinctive pyramid-shaped observation structure overlooking Biei's rolling farmland and the mountains beyond. And yes, there were steps. Many steps. At this point, Hokkaido and I had developed an understanding: it would provide spectacular views, and I would continue climbing things to see them.
The panorama at the top was absolutely worth the effort, with rolling fields stretching across the valley and the mountains creating a gorgeous backdrop. This is the Biei scenery you come to see, and standing above it gives you a real appreciation for just how beautiful this farming region is.
🍷 Furano Winery: Did Someone Say Free Wine?
Next stop was Furano Winery, because Furano isn't just famous for flowers. The area's climate also supports grape growing, and wine has been produced locally here since the 1970s. They also do a variety of non-alcoholic grape juices which are pretty cool. Most importantly, we had a coupon for a free bottle of Furano wine. You don't have to tell me twice.
We explored the winery, checked out the local wines and tasting area, enjoyed the vineyard setting and redeemed our complimentary bottle. There's something particularly satisfying about leaving a winery carrying a free bottle of wine. Free wine tastes better. I'm pretty sure that's science.
🧀 Furano Cheese Factory: Pizza Is Basically Research Too
Next we headed to the Furano Cheese Factory, where visitors can learn about local dairy production and some of the cheeses made using Hokkaido milk. Hokkaido is famous throughout Japan for its dairy products, so visiting a cheese factory in the middle of dairy country seemed completely appropriate.
But let's get to the important part: we got pizza. Freshly made pizza at a cheese factory seemed like the obvious choice, and it made the perfect afternoon snack. When you're standing in a building devoted to cheese, NOT eating something covered in melted cheese would just feel disrespectful. We take cultural sensitivity very seriously at WanderLyn Travel.
🍶 Dinner, Izakaya Style
Eventually we headed back to the Shin Furano Prince Hotel, where that evening we switched from buffet mode to izakaya mode. An izakaya is essentially a casual Japanese pub-style restaurant where you can order a variety of smaller dishes, making it perfect for sharing and trying several different things.
Which, as you may have noticed by now, is generally how I like to eat in Japan. A little of this, a little of that, maybe one more thing because it sounds interesting, and suddenly the entire table is full. No regrets.
✨ Ningle Terrace: A Fairy Village in the Forest
After dinner, we walked right outside the hotel and into one of Furano's most charming little surprises: Ningle Terrace. Hidden among the trees is a collection of small log cabins connected by wooden boardwalks, with each cabin housing a local artisan selling handmade crafts.
It's lovely during the day, but after dark it becomes magical. Warm lights illuminate the tiny cabins and wooden pathways beneath the forest canopy, making the entire place feel like a little fairy village tucked into the woods. We slowly wandered along the boardwalks, popped into the artisan shops and enjoyed the cool evening air.
There are around 15 little cabins to explore, and the setting itself is as much a part of the experience as the shopping. This isn't a giant commercial shopping center filled with chain stores; it's small, cozy and completely suited to the forest around it.
And because this was Japan and apparently every attraction comes with something delicious to investigate, there were treats too. Obviously, we investigated. The baked milk was outstanding. Again, research.
♨️ One Last Furano Soak
And how did we finish our final night in Furano? You already know. We headed back to Shisainoyu Onsen. After a day filled with flower fields, observation towers, vineyards, cheese, countryside wandering and more steps than I cared to count, lowering myself into that hot water felt AMAZING. There is something about finishing a busy travel day in an outdoor Japanese bath surrounded by trees that makes your entire body forgive you for everything you've made it do.
As I sat there soaking, I could almost hear my legs saying, “Okay, fine. You can make us walk another 10K tomorrow.” Maybe. Let's discuss it after breakfast. So, I also squeezed in a massage because I am the driver of this trip, it's my birthday, and well, they had a massage! My practitioner was born in Hawaii and I got a Lomi Lomi style massage - soooo good!
💜 Furano & Biei: A Completely Different Hokkaido
One of the things I loved most about this road trip was watching Hokkaido continually reinvent itself. Shiretoko felt wild and rugged. And we saw bears! Lake Akan felt mystical and deeply connected to the forests and Ainu culture. Then we crossed the mountains and suddenly found ourselves surrounded by enormous waterfalls, brilliant blue rivers, rolling farmland, vineyards and spectacular fields of flowers.
And of course, once again, we got our 10K—and then some. But hold on, there's more!
🔥 Coming Next: We're Going to Hell
Our flower-filled Furano adventure was ending, but Hokkaido definitely wasn't finished with us yet. The next morning we would pack up the car and head south toward Noboribetsu, home of the wonderfully named Jigokudani—Hell Valley. Because apparently nothing says vacation quite like voluntarily driving straight to Hell. 😂
Don't worry, though. There would be ice cream afterwards, because every good journey into the underworld should include a sweet treat.
And after escaping Hell? We continue south to Hakodate, where a completely different experience was waiting for us: an incredible traditional kaiseki dinner, with one beautifully prepared course arriving after another.
Volcanoes, ice cream and elegant Japanese dining all in one day? Yep. Sounds like WanderLyn Travel.
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